2 Fashion Notes and a Sewing Bee

There has been quite a bit of news happening in the fashion and sewing world recently, so this edition is more of a newsletter than a typical blog post.   The biggest news, the most important and the saddest is the death of Karl Lagerfeld.  His death has created a very large hole in the fashion industry, maybe too big to fill.  His contribution to the world of both couture and ready-to-wear design can never be replaced and I am devastated by this news.  Well maybe devastated is too dramatic, but I have been following him for many years, since he went to Chanel in 1983, in fact.  I have used his designs for ideas for my own creations and it isn’t that the well is dry, but I always looked forward to his latest ready-to-wear shows during the Paris fashion weeks.

(The New Yorker Magazine, September 10, 2012, published by Conde Nast and the drawing is by Ian Falconer)

Karl Lagerfeld may have used basic Chanel styling, but oh! what he has done with it over the years.  Although it continues to be Chanel, he has imposed his own aesthetic to create fashion that is modern, yet timeless, classic and forever.  

Does his death affect you too?  Did you follow his designs? 

I will sincerely miss Mr. Lagerfeld and his seasonal contributions at every fashion week.  I will miss looking at these shows from my front row seat thanks to the Vogue Runway app.  Most of all, I will miss seeing his inspiration come to life because every spring and fall, his fashions inspire me.   

Here are just a few photos I picked up off the web, which include a picture of a young Karl Lagerfeld and a picture of him as we know him best, in his gloves, the black pants and jacket, the starched white collar and the sunglasses.  I have also included several famous people who have worn his designs, a small sample of his Spring 2019 collection and a list of some patterns that may interest you if you like Karl Lagerfeld/Chanel designs. 

Note:  Although he was not there, his Fall 2019 show went off well and an entire collection was presented.

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Vogue Patterns, Claire Shaeffer’s Custom Couture Collections

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The other big 3 patterns companies offer the basic pocketed jacket pattern like V8804, but the Shaeffer patterns include directions with all the couture techniques used in the couture ateliers and workrooms.  Unfortunately, Karl Lagerfeld would never let Claire Shaeffer into his workroom, even though other couturiers opened their doors to her.  Nevermind, she has such a large collection of Chanel suits, coats, and dresses, she can go to her originals to get the information for the pattern designs and directions. 

Sandra Betzina’s  Today’s Fit for Vogue

I have also included 2 of Sandra Betzina’s  skirt patterns from her Vogue collection because they are very similar to a skirt design Lagerfeld showed on the Spring 2019 “runway”.  With a little bit of trim change, you could have your very own Chanel skirt.  If you want couture directions for a skirt pattern,   Claire Shaeffer has a skirt pattern too,  V7803.     I think Sandra Betzina’s patterns are out of print, but they are probably available on Ebay, Etsy, or one of the vintage pattern sites.

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The Red Carpet

The second item of interest is the red-carpet gowns at Oscar.  This year the themes were pink dresses and ruffles.  Some of the stars took these elements to the extreme.  My favorite dresses were the understated ones that had minimal ruffles and only 1 was pink. 

(Getty Image,Yalitza Aparicio in Rodarte )(Getty image) Regina King in Oscar de la Renta   (Getty Image) Kiki Layne in Versace

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The gowns I disliked were mostly pink and mostly ruffled and because they were too fussy, they made my least favorite dress list.  Linda Cardellini’s dress by Schiaparelli, made her look like a pink Big Bird and Maya Rudolph’s gown  by Giambattista Valli, minus the cape looked like a dress for a five-year old. 

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Awkwafina’s jacket, by Dsquared2, did not fit her and Gemma Chan’s dress by Giambattista Valli was a big pink meringue. 

I did not care for a few others , like Glen Close’s gown by Carolina Herrera.  It was neither pink nor ruffled, but the cape on the shoulders was just too much (and of late, too ubiquitous).  The gown underneath was flattering and with some jewelry and exotic trim would have been better, although not so commanding. One journalist commented that she looked like a super hero.

Christian Siriano deserves a special applause for designing gowns for the more curvy stars.  He has designed for full-figured women for many Oscar nights and I think it’s wonderful that he, a big name designer, has a focus on these collections.  Of course the fact that he’s from my “neck of the woods” has nothing to do with my appreciation for his style.

Octavia Spencer in Christian Siriano

Note:  Speaking of Christian Siriano, are you going to watch the new Project Runway on Bravo? He is taking the place of Tim Gunn?  It starts this Thursday, March 14^th at 8 PM ET

The Great British Sewing Bee

Finally, the Great British Sewing Bee, Season 5 is on!  I have seen both the first and part of the second episodes, but unfortunately they are off YouTube, taken down by the producers.  Don’t dismay, I think they will be back up again at some point. You just have to be vigilant in your quest, but also be careful of viruses that your computer could pick-up from sketchy web sites. Let us know if you find it

This year Claudia  Winkleman is no longer on the show and she has been replaced with Joe Lycett, a British comedian.  He adds a different perspective to the show.  He isn’t quite as dramatic as Claudia was but he does add his humor, and like Claudia, he cannot sew.

We have a few men in the competition this season, which I always enjoy.  Not all of them have the sewing experience that some of the women do, so a few of their ideas are too ambitious.  That puts them in a difficult spot, but I applaud their determination, nonetheless and they are still better sewers than I am.

The first episode was the usual three parts:  a pattern, a makeover from thrift shop finds and a final made-to-measure assigned garment for which the contestants pick their patterns.  The first part was a cotton challenge using a wiggle dress pattern.  The biggest problems were getting the invisible zipper in with no holes or bumps at the bottom.  The other problems were poorly aligned zipper tops, and hems not finished due to time.  The second challenge, the makeover one, was old blue jeans that could be made into anything, but sewers were limited to only three pairs.  Some of the entries were pretty ghastly but as usual there were a few that were amazing both for the ideas and the sewing skills required to complete them.  Finally, the sewers were all told to complete a jumpsuit to fit a live model using their own pattern.  The winning one was a real knockout and became garment of the week.  I am sorry I have no pictures of the contestants’ creations, but since the videos were taken off the Internet, I have no access to them.

I am always amazed that the sewers can just hop on these strange sewing machines with no problems. They must have different machines at home with which they are comfortable, but I guess they get some practice time before shooting begins.  If I were in their shoes, it would take me a whole episode just to get the hang of the machine.  But then I am used to the mechanical type and adapting to all of the options on a computerized machine would be difficult. I think the machines are Bernina’s but I cannot remember specifically.

The second week was the children’s’ episode.  Unfortunately, I did not see much of it .  When I finally had the time to watch it the second episode was pulled by the producer.   Five  episodes were posted and pulled, so they are moving along.  Oh Pook! I really wanted to see them.  Oh well, patience.  I understand episode 5 has a 70’s theme.

That’s it for today, but check back in a about a week, because I have a report on where to get the least expensive named-brand notions.  If you want to get a note to see the latest post, leave me your email address and I will let you know.  Note, these addresses will not be sold, given away, handed out or broadcast to anyone or thing.  Just fill in your address on the “Contact Us” screen and for your message just write “mailing list”.  And as always, we love your thoughts and comments.  Thank you.

Cheers!